This time, we look at two signature designs from Mame Kurogouchi: the Transparent Sculptural Bag, a design that dates back to the brand’s early years, and its distinctive cording embroidery.
Transparent Sculptural Bag
Designer Maiko Kurogouchi draws inspiration from Japanese culture, including mingei (folk crafts) and kōgei (traditional crafts), as well as landscapes preserved in her memory. The Transparent Sculptural Bag reflects this approach. Made from PVC, the bag has been part of the brand’s collections since its early years and takes inspiration from the winter landscapes of Nagano, Kurogouchi’s hometown.
”ransparent Sculptural Bag”
Inspired by the way light refracts through ice and icicles, the bag transforms a familiar winter landscape into a sculptural design.
“Transparent Sculptural Micro Chain Bag”
The first sample was reportedly made by Kurogouchi herself, using a cutter to shape a sheet of clear vinyl sourced from a hardware store. Several factories subsequently turned down requests to produce the design on a larger scale, and bringing it to production presented numerous challenges.
Today, cutting, processing, shaping and assembly are carried out at different factories, with artisans assembling the intricately interwoven parts by hand. The result is a contemporary craft object, delicate and intricate from every angle, that brings an artistic element into everyday life.
Cording Embroidery
Cording embroidery is another signature design of Mame Kurogouchi. It first appeared in the Fall/Winter 2020 collection, inspired by the basket as an object that holds, surrounds and wraps. Cording embroidery became the technique used to express this idea.
Using original linen cord, the technique traces patterns in a continuous line, creating intricate designs inspired by traditional Japanese basketry and plants. The embroidery appears on a range of items, including bags, shoes and clothing.
Fall/Winter 2022 Cording Embroidery Dress
The annual theme for 2022 was “Land.” Exploring her hometown of Nagano, Kurogouchi considered how people may have lived, behaved and thought during the Middle Jōmon period. These ideas informed the intricate, three-dimensional patterns found on Jōmon pottery, which she expressed through cording embroidery.
Inspired by pottery patterns and motifs drawn from her own memories, the embroidery creates a moss-like texture. The three-dimensional construction evokes the moss that covers trees and rocks, giving the dress an appearance that shifts with movement. The result is a sculptural piece that feels almost like a work of art to wear.
The Craft Behind Mame Kurogouchi
Mame Kurogouchi works with different production regions and factories depending on the fabrics and designs she wants to create. Her attention to detail can lead to disagreements with the artisans she works with, but she continues to pursue her vision in collaboration with them.
This commitment to each piece is part of what makes the brand distinctive. The time and care involved in production can limit quantities, and some items sell out soon after release.
